I’m a frequent visitor to San Antonio, where my sister’s family has lived for a couple decades. They’re in an outlying suburb, and often try to avoid the hellscape that is Texas’s highway loop system, so we often confine our visits to their side of the city. But downtown San Antonio has a lot going on, and I love to spend a couple nights there, soaking up lively blend of cultures. On my last visit, Hotel Valencia Riverwalk, an independent boutique hotel—a rarity in larger cities—provided the ideal springboard for downtown exploration.
The neighborhood
You can’t get much more downtown than the Hotel Valencia, located right in the middle of the restaurants-and-retail section of the Riverwalk, a 15-mile network of winding pathways and bridges originally built along the San Antonio River in 1941. It’s especially scenic when lit up at night.
This portion of the Riverwalk is also centrally located on the path itself. Depending on how ambitious you are, you can walk north to the city’s Museum Reach, or amble south toward its Mission Reach, where you’ll find its scenic, UNESCO World Heritage‒protected missions. (The most famous of the missions, the Alamo, isn’t actually on the Riverwalk, but a short, quarter-mile jaunt down East Houston Street.)
The central part of the Riverwalk, near the Shops at Rivercenter, a massive shopping mall, is quite busy and touristy. The bars attract a party crowd, and the daily boat tours are a big draw for families. It’s not a peaceful experience—unless you like to get up early in the morning—but it is a lighthearted, sociable one. And if you’re looking for something that feels a little more authentic, you can always head for La Villita, on the southern bank of the Riverwalk, where you’ll find a wealth of historic architecture repurposed into shops, studios, and galleries for a variety of local artisans. The village also hosts a number of events and festivals throughout the year.
The room at Hotel Valencia Riverwalk
The entrance of Hotel Valencia, with its serene fountain bookended by a pair of wrought-iron wrapped staircases, is an escape from the commercial surroundings outside. The lobby and common areas, decorated in Spanish Colonial style, with plenty of dark woods, wrought iron, and colorful tile, feel luxurious, but still approachable. You’ll find the check-in desk—and a welcome margarita—on the first floor, along with the petite yet charming Café Naranja (for coffee and pastry), Naranja Tequila and Mezcal Bar, and Dorrego’s, the hotel’s excellent restaurant.
My sister joined me for a stay in a River View Double (from $270/night), a large room with two queen beds, a desk, sitting area, flat-screen TV, and a good-size bathroom with plush towels and pleasantly aromatic toiletries from Lather. Ivory walls and Egyptian cotton linens were contrasted with walnut-toned woods, a black patterned carpet, and red accents. A pair of louvred shutters opened onto pretty views of the Riverwalk, which is at its most scenic at sunrise and just after the lights go on after dusk.
I’m picky about hotel beds, and I found Hotel Valencia’s to be cozy. I would have appreciated pillows of varying firmness—like I said, I’m fussy about these things, and like more support for my head and neck—but doubling up did the trick. The room had good soundproofing, so even though we were already tucked in our beds with a book by 10:00 p.m., we heard very little of the late-night crowd that was still prowling the Riverwalk.
I didn’t tour other rooms, but the hotel has several types, from a Classic Double (starting around $150/night), all the way up to a Junior Suite River View King (from $639/night).
Onsite amenities
Hotel Valencia, which was built in 2003 and fully renovated in 2017, has an onsite, 24-hour gym, featuring cardio equipment, free weights, and yoga mats and balls. I didn’t have a chance to use it, but when I passed by, it was empty, which is my favorite type of gym. The hotel also has meetings and event spaces, and a lovely outdoor terrace where you can sink into the cushioned furniture and let the breeze cool you down—and the friendly bartenders serve you cocktails with a nice kick.
Prior to sacking out, we had dinner at the Mexican-inspired Dorrego’s. Although the restaurant is higher-end, its prices are not outrageous, and the food is well prepared. I had a pair of appetizers—Provoleta (grilled Provolone cheese with red pepper flakes, served with crispy crostini) and Ensalada de La Casa (house salad with fresh vegetables and a chimichurri vinaigrette)—as my meal, plus a Paloma to drink.
After dinner, the hotel gifted us with a pair of tickets for a sightseeing boat tour on the river. My sister was especially delighted; although she has lived in San Antonio for years, she rarely has the opportunity to do “tourist stuff.” We followed it up with a stroll over sweet bridges and past ducks settling down for the night, looping back to Hotel Valencia.
Although not an onsite amenity, the hotel is only a block or two away from La Panadería, a family-run treasure that serves a mix of Mexican sweets (get the pan de muerto!) and traditional bakery favorites like pain au chocolat.
The Verdict
Despite being in the middle of the most touristy area of San Antonio, Hotel Valencia is quiet, soothing, well-appointed, and sophisticated—the antithesis of generic family-friendly chain hotels that try so hard to appeal to everyone, they really don’t resonate with anyone. It’s a great choice if you’re looking for a stay that’s convenient to major attractions yet feels a step above the mainstream.
