This is it.
To pursue that ever elusive work-life balance, travel buddy Mo and I turned in letters of resignation, primed old backpacks for active duty, and prepared to let years of work stress melt to nothingness in the greatest trip we’ve yet attempted.
All we needed was a place to go.
Scouring the web for all of eight minutes, we realized to great dismay that the Philippines would be racked by the habagat or southwest monsoon. “What if we could explore Ayutthaya in Thailand?” I mused. She had always loved ancient temples. “If we
tart from Singapore and keep on heading north via train, we can make it in a week.”
Her eyes gleamed, and it was so.
Singapore
Forming the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, Singapore is the smallest but among the wealthiest countries in Asia. Legend has it that a 13th century prince named Sri Tri Buana, upon establishing his kingdom, saw a lion. To honour it, the island was named Singa Pura – the lion city.
After touching down at Changi Airport, we take the train to Little India. We plan our next moves carefully: to minimize costs we’ll visit attractions that charge no entrance fees!
Hours later we are bound for Bukit Timah, the highest point in the country. It is absolutely primeval, with dramatic merbau, seraya and keranchi trees forming a thick emerald canopy against the elements. Nestled amidst the branches are long-tailed macaques. Should you feed them though, you’ll be charged up to SG3000!
By nightfall, we head on to the Keppel Train Station and ride to Malaysia.
Kuala Lumpur
”Our Thailand train is fully booked: try again next week,” said the counter girl impassively. “We can … sleep on the floor,” I reasoned. She almost smiled before she caught herself. We’ll take a bus instead.
Capital and largest city of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur or KL is home to 1.8 million people and iconic structures such as Petronas, the world’s tallest twin towers.
Morning saw us exploring the Batu Caves, one of the best Hindu shrines outside India. We pray to the Monkey God Hanuman, embodiment of strength. We also make an offering to another very important deity – the Money God.
Soon we head off to Puduraya bus station for the 1192 kilometer trip north.
Bangkok
“When yah get off, watch out for the scammers,” warns Kevin, an amiable Australian. “Especially the Tuk-tuk drivers. When yah wanna go somewhere, they tell yah it’s closed because of some holiday. Then they take yah to another place where yah’ll be forced to buy gems or clothes. So keep that guard up, eh?”
By lunch we pull into the capital of Thailand. Bangkok is a sprawling metropolis of 15 million people and countless attractions. We flag down a zooming Tuk-tuk and decide on a little experiment.
“How much to Wat Pho?” asks Mo.
“Oh no, no, no … Wat Pho closed now. Today is day of King, that’s why we all in yellow! Instead I take you to Temple of Happy Buddha. Then Thailand expo: cheap, cheap goods!”
“No thanks buddy, we’ll walk.”
Ten minutes later we arrive at Bangkok’s largest and oldest temple – completely open for business. Soon we gear up for our greatest destination – the ancient capital of Ayutthaya, 76 kilometres – you guessed it – north.
Ayutthaya
It was once a splendid city – one of the old world’s largest and home to a million folks in the 1700s. Dominated by glorious palaces, temples and ruled by 33 generations of Kings, Ayutthaya was the famed capital of Siam from 1350 until the Burmese sacked it in 1767. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is tended to with loving deference.
“Bring back bikes by six o’clock.” the old-timer yawned before leaving us with our new rides.
The heat and sudden monsoon downpour are completely forgotten as we flit in and out of a dreamland of temples: Wat Ratchaburana with its rows of seated stone Buddhas, Wat Phra Sri Sanphet with its domineering stupa mounds and Wat Phra Mahathat with its sacred Buddha head intertwined within a Banyan tree’s now-holy roots.
Before we know it we are surrounded by colossal elephants, a half-dozen of them all decked out in rouge regalia to tower over us mere mortals. The sheer beauty of the moment struck me and soon, everything turned into a haze. If the great Buddha achieved Nirvana under his Bodhi tree, then we achieved our goal in Ayutthaya – to once again enjoy life not as professionals, but simple beings playing our part in the fabric of life and time.
After flying 2398 kilometres and travelling by bus and train for another 1500 kilometres, we have at last come home. To the land of temples and elephants. And to freedom we have at last come home. To the land of temples and elephants. And to freedom.
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