Kob kun kaa
It takes courage to explore Thailand: Not least when you find yourself hurtling on a multi-lane motorway to Rayong in a public minibus driven by a maniac who, in reply to all requests to Cha-cha laughs and makes jazz hands. Terrified, I use a desperate tactic.
‘Toilet! I need the toilet!’
Roadside, equally anxious fellow passengers, some grown men, say their piece to him. Laughing in the face of each one he spits on the ground and ushers them back on board. He is mean and we are hours from our destination. I have no mobile phone signal. When my time comes to be ushered I stand my ground and refuse. Laughing again, he tries to herd me. Fighting back tears I stare him out and shake my head.
‘No. Your driving is dangerous. You need to slow down’
Finally, he acknowledges understanding. The rest of our road journey passes in a bubble of relief and at bearable speed. But this is Thailand; next is a ferry crossing to the island of Koh Samed.
When we leave Baan Phe port the sky and water are clear and blue. Five minutes in and a huge black thundercloud is overhead. As rain and wind pelts down the sea turns darkly treacherous. Around me, other passengers hide their heads, cry or become sickly silent. I focus my attentions on the captain. He is swarthy and smiling and eating a banana. Drawing strength from his confidence I acknowledge feeling safer here than I did on that minibus.
Landside, we decide that even though it is still raining we will walk to find some accommodation. Wheeling suitcases uphill we find some available rooms only to learn there is no electricity on this island. This evening it might be back. As the storm continues we splash our way to an oil lamp lit bar to drink semi-cooled Chang with an eccentric bar owner named Roger and quietly I thank heavens we are here. Our time on Koh Samed is spent mostly on foot; sometimes dodging motorbikes and stray dogs and once, pungent clouds of strange white mist swirling up out of overflowing drains.
Approaching another island, Koh Si Chang it quickly becomes clear we are the minority. Locals at Koh Loi make no attempt to understand questions for directions but instead stare blankly. Bemused and slightly intimidated we eventually land onto an island frozen in time. Here, the Tuk-tuks we ride in are banished from the mainland because they are deemed too dangerous. Exploring, we are frequently pointed and stared at but slowly, earn smiles too. Some come from a heavily armed Thai Police Officer who issues us with a ticket for sunbathing in bikinis on Kings land. More come from a 7-ELEVEN worker who, when I buy a bottle of wine waves it in the air to joyously, show his colleagues. I understand just enough of what he says to hear I am a foreign woman who drinks.
I learn, during my time in Thailand to be hopeful about restaurant food and drink; mostly that I will actually get what I order but sometimes that it will even arrive. Having consumed it I stay hopeful it will not upset my stomach. The authentic Thai toilet system demands great stamina and iron guts. Knowing that cloudy ice cubes are made from unfiltered tank water is a hard, knee trembling lesson to learn. Learning that if a Thai waitress tells you, in all seriousness there is no egg for your shrimp fried rice but then delivers it amply bursting with some is a delightful surprise to know.
Aware of there being real danger of grabbing hold of a snake instead of a vine as I clamber up saturated interior jungle to reach a hidden waterfall on Koh Chang tests me: Equally as challenging for me is cycling national park mountain tracks and an elevated, rickety wooden pier. Going threes up on a motorbike on the mountainous island of Koh Larn is a new experience; as is being approached by a troop of wild monkeys on a remote beach and then later watching a local man administer painful treatment to jellyfish stings.
But even as adventures are daily threatening to overwhelm me I survive and am inspired and grow and decide I would not change a single thing. Except that I should have booked to stay for longer.
About the Author
I am a published author of two non-fiction books and as well have Journalist experience. Earlier this month I won a Souvenir writing competition run by Wanderlust UK. I currently supply creative non-fiction flash pieces for a Thai city guide magazine.
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The best adventures are all spiced with danger 🙂 Des |