“Santa Fe is a special place,” informed one of my travel companions, as we made our way from Albuquerque to Santa Fe one late spring afternoon. As a native Texan, my new friend had been traveling to the city for years, and she had recently spent her honeymoon there, so I figured she might be just a little bit biased.
It was my first trip to New Mexico, and I was excited to see what all the buzz was about surrounding Santa Fe. All I knew about the city was that it had a renowned art scene and was Georgia O’Keeffe country. Being an art aficionado and longtime O’Keeffe fan, I planned to make a beeline to her eponymous museum the first chance I got. I had long admired the modern artist’s colorful abstracts and her simple yet elegant paintings of large-scale flowers, scenic desert landscapes, shells, clouds, and skulls, among other subjects.
As we drove on from ABQ, I drank in the gorgeous views—the breathtaking mountain vistas and the clear blue sky that seemed to stretch on forever. Arriving in the city, we headed to our accommodations at the historic Hotel St. Francis, a warm, inviting place named after the patron saint of Santa Fe. The hotel’s authentic, mission-inspired decor features a candlelit baptismal font in the lobby, handcrafted wood furniture and art by local artisans, statues of saints, wrought iron crosses, and old photographs lining the walls. With its luxurious yet rustic ambience evoking old Santa Fe, the city’s oldest hotel reflects the region’s early Franciscan missionaries. Our affable concierge gave us the full history and a tour of the property later that evening, while she also shared a few stories about the hotel being haunted, but thankfully, I didn’t experience any ghostly activity during my stay here.
Walking around Santa Fe, I eagerly soaked-up the city’s local culture, especially around the historic Santa Fe Plaza. A National Historic Landmark, the 400-year-old square serves as the heart of downtown, and many of the city’s annual events revolve around this vibrant gathering spot. Other highlights included viewing multiple exhibits at many of the city’s museums (including my beloved Georgia O’Keeffe Museum—smaller than I expected, but definitely worthwhile) and visiting the famous churches, including the stunning St. Francis Cathedral and the Loretto Chapel, which draws tourists with its “miraculous” circular staircase. Spiritual iconography is everywhere in Santa Fe, and as a first-time visitor, I found the imagery soothing—a balm for the harried soul.
During my four days of wandering around this picturesque, high-altitude city, I’d return to my lodging each afternoon to find fellow travelers enjoying a siesta out on the hotel’s streetside veranda. Taking a break from the late-afternoon heat, relaxing, and imbibing in a cocktail seemed like a smart way to acclimate to the desert climate. Those hazy, languid afternoons offered a welcome respite from the unrelenting sun, and they’re forever etched in the mosaic of my travel memories.
While our society’s current culture of busyness makes everyone feel as if they need to constantly rush around and accomplish much on a daily basis, Santa Fe allows for the opportunity to slow down and savor the experience of being a traveler in a unique destination. With an overall emphasis on arts and culture, the city also inspired me as a writer, especially in regard to knowing that it’s okay to desire an authentic, creative life. Here, in this majestic desert setting, I was free to listen to the rhythm of my own voice.
On our last evening in Santa Fe, after being thoroughly satiated by the delicious New Mexican cuisine (including green chile cheeseburgers, of course), our group met at Secreto Lounge, the hotel’s swanky bar, for a final toast and to say our goodbyes. It was a memorable night under the starry desert sky, and I believe we were all a little blue to be parting company with our new fast friends. As we sipped our drinks, one of our travel companions mused, “You know, not everyone gets to experience this. We are so blessed.”
Indeed, we were incredibly blessed to be together in the Land of Enchantment on that particular evening, and my first trip to Santa Fe remains one of my all-time favorite travel adventures. As for being a magical, spiritual place that my soul longs to return to? Yes, the city is all of that—a very special destination, as well as a conduit to artistic freedom and the pursuit of a literary life.
About the Author: Beth Fhaner is an Orange County, Calif.-based freelance writer and editor whose work appears in various print and online outlets. A former book and magazine editor, she has held positions at The Recording Academy (Grammy Awards), Westways magazine, the now-defunct Pages magazine, Borders Group, and Gale Group/Visible Ink Press.
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Wonderful story Beth! This is also my favorite place to visit and you described it really well! Thank you!
Sounds like a beautiful place to see and feel – great travel writing!