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In Transit in Croatia

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I’ve always loved liminal places – hotel rooms, airport terminals… The generic in-betweenness of them is non-threatening, like a closed door that excuses you from worrying, because you can’t see what’s on the other side. Those in-between places liberate you from commitment to before and after. They are a kind of purgatory, a space to […]

Surf’s Up in Peru

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Surf’s up! I’ve been in utter lust with all things surfing as far back as I can remember. However, it was my choice to make ours a long-distance relationship; I worshipped board-carrying athletes from afar. How I wanted to learn! However, the barriers against me were too formidable. First off, you have to do this […]

Discovering Freedom in the USA

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Discovering Freedom in the USA 6:05 a.m. – groan and wake up 6:10 a.m. – have coffee, one cup 7:00 a.m. – sigh and start work 12:00 p.m. – go completely berserk 5:30 p.m. – stuck in rush hour 7:00 p.m. – frozen dinner, devoured 7:30 p.m. – have travel day-dreams 9:30 p.m. – concoct […]

Elevation Gain in Peru

Elevation Gain

We needed two days to get to the peak. Three, if you counted travel. We spent the night in Huaraz, Peru, a small mountain town in the Andes, and before the sun rose the next day we were in a van built for eight but filled with twenty Peruvians. Our bags were strapped to the […]

Tiger’s Blood with the King of Hearts in Peru

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As the driver overtakes a truck on a blind corner the old man beside me dabs his forehead with a handkerchief. There is a bunch of squawking flowers between his feet- two chickens tied together at the legs. We pass a derelict water park. Abandoned slides plunge into the thick green of a swimming pool. […]

Tambopata: Waltzing with Butterflies

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Tambopata: Waltzing with Butterflies Bleary-eyed and lethargic, we chug downstream through muddy brown waters as the cool morning air gradually lifts our heavy, squinting eyelids. The breeze is a refreshing change from the cloying heat we are used to and as our spirits are lifted by its tonic touch the boat becomes a chattier place, […]

Losing time in Peru

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Ibn Battuta once said, “Travel- it leaves you speechless and then turns you into a story teller.” When my feet first touched the ground in Peru, I instantly felt changed. Every single step was culturally enriching, from hiking Machu Picchu, to trekking through the Amazon Forest, to running through the markets of Cusco in the […]

Macaws of the Peruvian Amazon

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The “Heath River Centre Lodge” is on the river Heath which marks the frontier between Peru and Bolivia; nothing to see except some local miners looking for gold. Soon after leaving, except the splendid crescent of the moon, the night was complete. The boat had no lights and followed the indications of someone lightening the […]

Peru: Feet of Strength

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My leaden legs plod beneath me. They scream for rest but my mind is resolved to keep moving. I fear that if I stop I may collapse irrecoverably. It feels as though someone has placed a boulder inside my backpack and my body is strangely sluggish. I have only trudged this path for a few […]

Peru: The Man in the Panama Hat

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I follow the long line of people towards the start of the trail. Soft sounds of strange languages circle in the breeze. People are hushed and I am grateful. The morning is just beginning to break, hesitant and gentle in its arrival. We are a convoy of quiet expectation, the pace eager but not rushed. […]