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Ethiopia: Harar in Chaos

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  Harar street scene: Photo by Jack McGory The hyenas circled the perimeter of the alley, audibly gnashing their teeth and giving voice to low, guttural growls.  Their feet padded softly on the dirt, but the animals’ smell overwhelmed even the fetid stink from the narrow alleyway, where night soil from an open sewage canal [...]

TFAI to Ethiopia: How to Smuggle an Undocumented Guy Over a Lawless Border

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One day my brother and I decided to leave  TFAI, the small French enclave on the Red Sea.  Once known as French Somalia, the name had been changed to Territoire Française des Afars et Issas.  Today, of course, the tiny country with the hellish climate is called Djibouti to honor its only major city.  The [...]

Ethiopia: Bet Giorgis at Lalibela

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Photos by Ken and Peg Herring Lalibela is a site that must be seen to be fully appreciated.  The monolithic stone churches, carved from the living rock, date from around the 12th century or so, but debate still exists as to the dates of construction. My favorite is the Church of St. George, or Bet [...]